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Dressmaking, Featured

Archer shirt

I’ve seen the pattern all over the web and thought it was time to have a go. I’ve never done a sew along before (I’ve always done my own thing) but decided to join in with the step by step walk though. And loved it :)

I didn’t realise it when I bought it at Christmas – but December was also Archer appreciation month! Good timing eh.

The fabric that I bought from Morocco seemed perfect. Maybe a bit soft but I bought it with a blouse/shirt in mind and there were no fabric shops open on boxing day to be distracted by!

Its been a while since I’ve sewn anything like this so I started with a toile first just to get familiar and gage the size as I could see myself making more than one of these shirts. It was good job because even after measuring the inside arm before hand, the sleeves ended being a good couple of inches too short.

Archer shirt - cutting table

The thickness of the muslin meant it was really easy to throw the shirt together. The edges met nicely, corners turned perfectly, and the pressure was non existent as this was a practise run.

For the second attempt I added an inch to the length of the body and 3 inches to the length of my arms. I have freaky arms.

Archer shirt - Rotary cutter

The cotton was a slightly different story. Just getting the grain nice and straight was the first problem as it distorted really easily. The next issue was pulling the grain when using scissors, so I had to give up on that tramadol idea and got out the rotary cutter.

Top tip : stick a bit of masking tape to the wrong sides of your pieces

Archer shirt - wrong side

My right sides had a slight sheen but it wasn’t always easy to identify. I stuck some washi tape to all my wrong sides and that saved loads of time – just remember to remove it before you trap it inside your yolk!

The cotton was very fragile so I had to be careful applying heat/steam. Where possible I used a second off cut of the fabric as a barrier for the heat but the iron allowed me to mould my pieces really nicely for a clean finish.

Had a couple of issues with the collar which I’ll avoid next time but was very pleased with my sleeve plankets this time. Jen eased the nerves in the sew-along.

Archer shirt - sleeve planket

The pockets where the last additions. In the Archer walk through, Jen put the pockets on at the start, but I decided to see what the shirt looked like without first. Hmm plain….

So I decided these needed so be featured up a bit. I’ve really enjoyed the top stitching on this project so I went for couple more diagonal lines on the pockets  - just ’cause I could.

Archer shirt Archer shirt Archer shirt

So that’s it – my first Archer. I’m sure there will be more. Very little amendment needed, really clear instructions and nice looking result. You can buy the download from the Grainline shop.

Now I’m off to look at everyone else’s on flickr….

Nicole @ beaufrog

 

Craft

I love bunting. And I love infographics. So whats better than a bunting infographic?

I thought this was a really clever way to combine digital data with celebration craft. The guys at Spreading Jam have been busy with a team of expert stitchers crafting this clever idea.

“Our inspiration came from all the naff jubilee trinkets out there we saw in every shop and street corner. Jubilee this and Jubilee that. From thimbles to thrones. Then we got thinking. An epiphany, a spark, a moment of genius: what if the data visualisation was actually a piece of memorabilia itself!?”

The buntings anti anxiety features spoof Royal Twitter accounts, a Jubilee party buzz map with the highest amount of buzz in red and a scale of the most popular types of naff memorabilia. Genius!

Well done guys, very impressive execution of a clever idea!

You can see images of the making of the bunting and the final designs on Pinterest.

 

There are some amazing Jubilee tutorials out there at the moment. looking for inspiration, give these a go -

Mollie Makes – Best of Julilee Stitching

The Making Spot – Get Crafting for the Jubilee

It’s not too late to celebrate, is anyone else frantically sewing union jacks right now?

Dressmaking, Featured, How To

How To : Make Perfect Pleats with a Pleating Board

After working on a few pleating projects (including the pleated Kate dress) I started to wonder how I could make the pleating process easier. Measuring those pleats, pinning them down and ironing them just to find they weren’t quite right was getting to be really frustrating. So it was around that time the light bulb above my head switched on and I had my Dragons Den moment (or not quite because this isn’t an original idea – boo) – I needed a template to run the pleats through! Bingo.

After a couple of attempts, I got quite a good at churning these things out and heres how you can do it too -

MATERIALS

EQUIPMENT

Strong spray adhesive = £4.99 Long ruler
Lining paper = £1.19 Pen
Scrap material = free Scissors
Iron and ironing board
Big table

materials needed

  • Cut a length of lining paper to your desired length.

I cut mine at 1 metre but you could go longer or shorter depending on what you’re making.

  • Mark the pleat folds along the sides of your lining paper.

Now you’ll need to make a decision on what size you want your pleats to be when finished. In these pictures I’ve used 35mm:20mm as my measurements. This means the pleat will look like a nice medium sized pleat – think gym skirt.

Allow for approx 2mm difference as your pleats won’t be the exact same lengths as your board.

marking the pleats

  • Lightly score a line along every fold.

This means, join up your marks and run a pair of scissors across just to make life that little bit easier when you come to fold the pleats. Scissors are perfect as they are not too sharp – just watch your pinkies!

scoring the pleats

scored pleats

  • Fold the scored lines in opposite directions to make the zig zag pleat formation.

Now this is the tricky bit. I used the edge of a table to find the score line and make sure the fold was completely in line. It’s easy to fold the paper in the wrong place or fold it in the wrong direction so be patience – it’s anti inflammatories worth spending extra time on this part.

pleated paper

  • Gather your paper pleats and iron the folds down.

Sounds easy enough right? No! Those pleats will not want to be gathered! Take your time, then when you’ve got them all in your hand get ‘em ironed in to place on the hottest steamiest setting you have.

pleated paper

  • Glue one side of your gathered pleats to a sheet of material.

I’d advise using a strong carpet glue for this bit. You could use PVA but this would wet the paper and take a long to dry – with you pressing down…far too time consuming. I used a heavy duty spray adhesive (cost £4.99 from haberdashery shop) that’s made for upholstery – does the job perfectly! It’s not wet, really easy to spray on both the paper and the material, no chance of the two surface becoming unstuck and it does not react to heat.

I’ve used some material that I’ve had folded up for years and will never find a project for, but it’s nice to use something interesting to give your pleating board some personality. When it’s glued, cut away the excess material. Then iron the life out of it until you are happy the the pleats are nice and sharp.

Apologies for lack of photography on this section (was far to involved to remember to take pictures!). You can view this section in the video below at 4:10 s.

strong adhesive spray

  • Tuck the material you wish to pleat into the paper folds and iron once in place.

Use a ruler or credit card to make sure the fabric is tightly tucked into the pleating board.

creating pleats

ironing pleats

  • Bend the pleating board to release the pleats and enjoy!
Voila! How easy was that? Give it a go and let me know how you get on.

pleated fabric

end of the pleating board

reverse of the pleating board

While your at it, why not make a few more pleating boards with varying sizes of pleats – it’ll be worth it the next time you want to make tiny tiny pleats for that urgent dress! Good luck!

multiple boards for different sizes of pleats

Nicole @ beaufrog

Dressmaking, Featured, How To

Kate Middleton, the talk of the country, can’t put a foot wrong when it comes to fashion.

For her first day as a Princess she choose to wear high street brand Zara, also worn by her sister Pippa and most recently the PM’s wife – the fashion label of the sophisticated ladies.

Kate Middleton wearing a blue Zara dress

Naturally, when I heard the royal blue dress was from Zara I jumped straight on the website (as did my sister I later found!) to find it was sold out in all sizes.

End of that then. But no I thought, this is just a simple under dress with a pleated bit of float stitched on top. Simple I thought, I’ll make one!

Here goes the story…

 

How To : Make Kate’s Blue Dress

The actual dress -

Blue Zara Dress

Nicole’s beaufrog dress -

Nicoles beaufrog royal blue kate middleton dress

MATERIALS

EQUIPMENT

3 meters of Royal Georgette Polyester = £6.45 Sewing Machine
1.5 meters of lightweight cotton = £4 Mannequin
1 cute blue button = 11p Pattern making book / pattern
Blue thread = £1.15 Iron and ironing board
Scissors
Lot’s and lot’s of pins!

First of I had to understand the structure of the dress and plan the base. I used the bible that is Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear by Winifred Aldrich to create the pattern for a simple dress.

This book allows to create the basic pattern for almost anything, it’s all about learning the basic block then adapting it for your design.

making the pattern for the dress

Traditionally a dressmaker would create the pattern on tissue paper but I created this one on the computer  (in Illustrator) then printed it out across A4 paper and taped it together.

From this pattern, you can then create your basic underdress, tweaking the darts, shoulder, neckline and length on the mannequin.

making the under dress

Creating the pleats was the trickiest part of the make. I created 1 inch wide pleats on the sewing machine then ironed in the pleats while pinned down on the ironing board. Lot’s of effort went into creating them but I knew the dress just would not compete without perfect pleats.

sewing the pleats

I then attached the pleated material to the under dress sewing wrong sides together. The shoulders of the under dress had to be unpicked then re-sewn with the pleating. On the back of the dress there is a cute little button with a loop to secure it.

close up of the back of the dress

close up on the hem and the waist

Finally, a hem was placed on the under and over skirt. Creating the hem allowed the dress to be more fluid and floaty.

the front and back of the dress

The finished royal blue kate dress

Teamed with a smart blazer and belt, I have a dress good enough for a Princess!

final dress

So there you go, that’s my interpretation of the Kate dress.

Hope you enjoyed watching this come to life and look out for my follow up post where you’ll see the dress actually modelled.

Nicole @ beaufrog

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Hemlock Tee from Grainline Studio

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Fabric Dash Around London

Fabric Dash Around London

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Make A Pleating Board

Make A Pleating Board

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Beaufrog | Making great fashion and beautiful homes
Dressmaking, Featured

This week I decided to give the Hemlock Tee a go from Grainline . I wanted something easy, comfortable and wearable to get me through January. And this one meant I could switch the colour of my threads out on my over locker (excited by the small things).

I already had a striped knit set to the side that worked brilliantly. I whizzed through the pattern like a breeze – only complication was that I have octopus arms and the sleeves were a weird length on me. So I kinda created 2 cuffs and overlocked those to the end of the sleeves – almost perfect :)

Hemlock tee

I did find with this knit that it had a lot of give in it and became huge around the waist, so after these pictures I ran it through the overlocker again taking off 4-5cm from the sides. It now sits really nicely on the hips while staying loose and slouchy around the neck.

Hemlock tee

Hemlock tee

It took 2 evenings to prepare the pattern and throw it together – so quick that I’ve got my sister making one too. Before hand she said she was scared of sewing machines….few hours later she’s flown through it! :)

If she’ll let me, pictures will be shared when finished.

Fabric shopping

I decided to go and explore Minerva Crafts a couple of weeks ago to get some air. It was that period between Christmas and New Year when you realise you can’t remember the last time you left the house – so I needed to do something that would make me feel sane again.

It’s only 30 minutes down the road and don’t know why I’ve never made the journey before…maybe because I think of Minerva as being online rather than bricks and mortar.

Anyway, after driving around a few one way streets and then eventually releasing “it’s that massive building there (!)” I entered into the shop to find a cave of goods.

Minerva-edging

The shop was very well stocked with crafting supplies – if you’re after wool then you’ll find it here!

As a fabric shopper, I think most of the stock sold online wasn’t on display in the shop but I did manage to find a couple of fabrics I might antibiotics return for.

I recognised this one which looks very similar to a version Paunnet used for a dress.

Minerva-measuring-tape-fabric

I also found a nice wool that I may be returning for which seemed like a bargain at £6.99 p/m. I’m looking to make a winter boyfriend style coat soon so this would work well.

Minerva-wool

I wasn’t expecting to, but I somehow ended up leaving with some knitting supplies to mess about with.

Before now I’ve tried cutting t-shirt jersey into thin strips to knit with, but failed – and got covered in frayed ends at the same time. Well, now they’ve only started selling the stuff!? It’s called Hoooked. So looking forward to experimenting with that along with some nice warm coloured wool to play with.

wool

So that’s it, there’s a lot of talk about Minerva online and I thought it would be nice to share what the store looks like…

Mirror

Nicole @ beaufrog

Dressmaking, Featured

Archer shirt

I’ve seen the pattern all over the web and thought it was time to have a go. I’ve never done a sew along before (I’ve always done my own thing) but decided to join in with the step by step walk though. And loved it :)

I didn’t realise it when I bought it at Christmas – but December was also Archer appreciation month! Good timing eh.

The fabric that I bought from Morocco seemed perfect. Maybe a bit soft but I bought it with a blouse/shirt in mind and there were no fabric shops open on boxing day to be distracted by!

Its been a while since I’ve sewn anything like this so I started with a toile first just to get familiar and gage the size as I could see myself making more than one of these shirts. It was good job because even after measuring the inside arm before hand, the sleeves ended being a good couple of inches too short.

Archer shirt - cutting table

The thickness of the muslin meant it was really easy to throw the shirt together. The edges met nicely, corners turned perfectly, and the pressure was non existent as this was a practise run.

For the second attempt I added an inch to the length of the body and 3 inches to the length of my arms. I have freaky arms.

Archer shirt - Rotary cutter

The cotton was a slightly different story. Just getting the grain nice and straight was the first problem as it distorted really easily. The next issue was pulling the grain when using scissors, so I had to give up on that tramadol idea and got out the rotary cutter.

Top tip : stick a bit of masking tape to the wrong sides of your pieces

Archer shirt - wrong side

My right sides had a slight sheen but it wasn’t always easy to identify. I stuck some washi tape to all my wrong sides and that saved loads of time – just remember to remove it before you trap it inside your yolk!

The cotton was very fragile so I had to be careful applying heat/steam. Where possible I used a second off cut of the fabric as a barrier for the heat but the iron allowed me to mould my pieces really nicely for a clean finish.

Had a couple of issues with the collar which I’ll avoid next time but was very pleased with my sleeve plankets this time. Jen eased the nerves in the sew-along.

Archer shirt - sleeve planket

The pockets where the last additions. In the Archer walk through, Jen put the pockets on at the start, but I decided to see what the shirt looked like without first. Hmm plain….

So I decided these needed so be featured up a bit. I’ve really enjoyed the top stitching on this project so I went for couple more diagonal lines on the pockets - just ’cause I could.

Archer shirt Archer shirt Archer shirt

So that’s it – my first Archer. I’m sure there will be more. Very little amendment needed, really clear instructions and nice looking result. You can buy the download from the Grainline shop.

Now I’m off to look at everyone else’s on flickr….

Nicole @ beaufrog

 

Update

Ta da, here it is…the new blog design!

Weve gone from this bland old thing -

Old beaufrog design

To this -

New-design-desktop

It seemed to take for ever for the name servers to move, and then there was some frantic find and replace action to get everything working again but Beaufrog has a fresh pharmacy face for 2014.

Its nice and easy to read across devices and Ill be sorting out the categorisation of posts to make it super easy to find the stuff that you are most interested in.

New-design-mobile

Hope you like it :)

nicole @ beaufrog

Pinterest

Sorry:
- Please recheck your ID.

Follow on Bloglovin

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Featured Posts

Hemlock Tee from Grainline Studio

Hemlock Tee from Grainline Studio

I made an Archer Shirt

I made an Archer Shirt

Fabric Dash Around London

Fabric Dash Around London

Dress to Skirt Up-Cycle

Dress to Skirt Up-Cycle

Make A Pleating Board

Make A Pleating Board

Categories

Search

Translation


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